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Directions
For Headlight Restoration Kit I. DAMAGE REMOVALA.
Bottle of #1 Crystal View Prep
1.
Always use #1 when sanding. Only apply a dime, to quarter-size amount of #1
to the folded sandpaper as described below. Start sanding at the top of the
lens and “catch” any excess that runs down the lens with the sandpaper.
The #1 will assist in the removal of damaged plastic and keeps the finishing
papers from clogging with the removed plastic. You will have to apply more
small amounts of #1 as you sand to keep the surface slightly wet. If it’s
wet, it’s working. Do not use so much that it runs down the bumper. The
product is Paint-safe, but you do not want to waste it. B.
Start with 400-grit finishing paper. 1.
Fold the finishing paper in half.
Hold the folded paper so your fingertips are along the fold, and the open
ends are held against your palm by your thumb. This helps in handling the
paper, and distributes pressure more evenly. 2.
With firm pressure start
sanding vigorously until the entire lens has been worked. Some headlights
will require more aggressive sanding to remove the damaged plastic. 3.
You will see a yellowish or
brownish color develop on the lens; this is the damaged plastic being
removed. 4.
To check your progress wipe the
lens dry and rub the lens with your fingertips. If you feel any rough spots
or can see any obvious remaining damage, re-work the lens until it’s
completely smooth to the touch and has a uniform appearance. 5.
To make sure that you have gotten through the damaged surface,
wipe the lens with the lint-free paper towel and then, using the other side
of the 400-grit sandpaper, sand the surface again. If a white paste is
created, you are through the damage and into the clear plastic. This will
indicate that you have completed the 400-grit sanding process. If you still
see yellow paste, you will need to continue sanding to remove more of the
damaged surface. 6.
When
finished with this step, wipe the lens clean with the paper towel. IMPORTANT:
Damage removal is critical; if it is incomplete the final results will be
unsatisfactory. This step will determine the quality of the restoration so
TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE IT RIGHT!!!
C. Use 1000 & 3,000-grit finishing paper (fold
like the 400 grit) 1.
As with the 400-grit apply just
enough #1 to keep the lens wet during the sanding. 2.
Using the 1000-grit sandpaper, work
the entire lens until the 400-grit sanding pattern has been removed. 3.
You will notice that the sound
changes slightly while sanding as the 1,000-grit paper rounds off the ridges
created by the 400-grit. When the surface has been thoroughly sanded, you
will have removed the 400-grit sanding pattern. Wipe the lens and proceed to
the 3,000-grit finishing paper. 4.
Using the same process as with the
1000-grit, work the lens with the 3000-grit. 5.
The 3,000-grit is very fine and
will immediately begin to “slide” over the surface. You will also be
able to see clearly through the surface. When the 3,000-grit slides easily
over the entire lens, you are done sanding. 6.
There are 2 types of headlights
lenses. One has the optics on the back side of the lens (lines inside of
lens) and the other is a clear lens. The clear lens type headlights may
require using the 3000-grit twice. Wipe the lens and proceed to the next
step. 1.
Apply some #2 (two full droppers)
to a clean lint-free paper towel and wipe the entire lens. Not
only does #2 clean the lens, but will give a preview of what the finished
lens will look like. If you are not satisfied with what you see, re-work
that area. Now wipe the lens again with #2.
II. RESURFACING THE LENS A.
Bottle of #3 Crystal
View Sealer. B. Pre-loading the brush1.
Apply a small amount (1/4” wide line) of #3 to both sides of the brush making
sure the tip is covered. On average, one dropper on each side is
enough. Larger lenses will require more. It is better to have slightly
too much #3 on the brush rather than too little. C. Applying #31.
Using the pre-loaded brush, in a
deliberate motion, brush the Sealer (#3) in («)
horizontal strokes until the lens has an even coat of Sealer. Make sure you
brush out runs and bubbles. If bubbles are still visible blot the brush on a
paper towel and wait about 30 seconds and LIGHTLY brush out the bubbles. 2.
If too much Sealer is used, and runs appear, lean the brush
over more while stroking the lens and use the dry portion of the brush to
“mop-up” any excess. Or lightly blot the brush on a lint-free paper
towel and with gentle strokes; go over the surface to remove excess. 3.
Brush strokes will disappear. The
Sealer is self-leveling. Continue this procedure with the other headlight. NOTES: Application
of the Sealer needs to be done quickly (the higher the outside temperature
the quicker you need to be) as the Sealer starts to set-up faster than paint
or varnish. Do not over-brush, as this will “pull” the finish.
Headlights should be dry to touch in 30 - 40 minutes. If
you are not satisfied with the finish after the final step – if you see
dry streaks, or have overworked the Sealer – you can easily remove the
Sealer (#3) before it has hardened by applying the Cleaner (#2) to a paper
towel and wiping the surface to remove the Sealer. After all the Sealer is
removed you can repeat the application of the Sealer as instructed above. No
additional sanding is required.
Call
Crystal View Chemicals at (954) 423-1874 |
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